Basic Woodworking
Tools
From "Ask
DIY"
episode ADI-109 -- More
Projects »
Q: We just moved, and for the first time I actually
have a garage large enough for me to set up a modest
woodworking shop in one corner. What tools would you recommend
that I get first?
A: (Bruce Johnson, Ask DIY Woodworking
expert) Setting up a workshop is good for the body and the
brain, not to mention good for making lots of cool stuff for
your house. The first thing I recommend for a workshop is a
solid workbench. You can make your own from a sheet of plywood
and some two-by-fours, but I now prefer the professional
workbenches that cost around a hundred dollars. What's
particularly nice about them are the accessories, such as the
built-in vise. It's so useful it's almost like having an extra
pair of hands. They also come with a tool tray, so you can set
your tools down in the middle of a project without having to
worry about knocking them to the floor when you swing the wood
around.
With most projects, one of the first challenges is cutting
the wood. Before you select the tools you'll want, ask
yourself, "Can I do it by hand?" If so, you'll want two types
of saw, a rip saw and a back saw (figure A). A back saw
has more teeth per inch and is ideal for making neat, shallow
cuts.
If you want to go with power, however, consider getting a
table saw (figure B). It provides a flat, stable
surface, and you can adjust its blade for height or for
cutting bevels. If you want to start making your own picture
frames, you'll need a table saw. Make sure you get one with a
fence that's easy to adjust.
Safety alert: Always wear safety glasses when you
work on a table saw. That's so important that you should
designate a pair of safety glasses that can stay on the table
saw, so you'll always have them on hand. Also use a push stick
(figure C) with a table saw to protect your fingers.
Two other saws you may want to consider are a circular saw
and a saber saw (figure D). A circular saw is really
designed more for carpentry than woodworking, but a saber saw
can save you the cost of a band saw -- provided you have a
sturdy workbench where you can clamp your wood while you use
the saber saw.
As for drills, the best basic choice is a portable,
battery-operated power drill (figure E). It can drill
holes, and you can also change the tip and use it as an
electric screwdriver. The only drawback is that you'll need a
battery-charger and two batteries, one to keep in the drill,
the other to keep in the charger. You do, however, save the
cost and inconvenience of a drop cord.
Once your wood is cut, you'll need to sand it. You can sand
by hand with sandpaper, but that's going to get old fast. If
you want to try it, at least get a hard rubber sanding block.
To use it, tear your sandpaper into strips the same width as
the block and attach it to the block by the pointed teeth. I
keep a couple of sanding blocks around for small sanding jobs,
but I reach for an electric palm sander (figure F) for
larger projects. Lightweight and inexpensive, this sander can
make sanding almost fun.
If you think more power will save more time, reconsider
before reaching for a belt sander. Even with a medium-grit of
sandpaper, a belt sander will remove a lot of wood very
quickly -- sometimes too quickly. I don't use a belt sander as
much as I do a palm sander. If you can afford to, buy both. If
not, start with a palm sander.
More questions for Bruce:
Q: What's the difference between a cheaper table saw
blade and the more expensive kind?
A: I know the temptation to buy a cheap blade, but
here's the problem: A cheap blade requires your motor to work
that much harder to cut through the wood. I recommend that you
spend the extra money to get a carbide-tip blade (figure
G). You'll get cleaner cuts, and your table-saw motor will
last longer.
Q: Whenever I'm using my saber saw, I find that the
blade bends at an angle rather than cutting straight up and
down. Am I doing something wrong?
A: Chances are you're using a cheap blade. Often the
blade that comes with the saw isn't as good as what you can
buy off the shelf. Spend a little more money on a new blade
that won't bend.
Q: I never feel quite confident that I'm using the
right grit of sandpaper for each project. Are there any
guidelines I should follow?
A: The coarsest sandpapers have two digits, and you
should use them when you want to remove a lot of wood quickly.
If you just want to remove a little wood or shallow scratches,
move up to the 100 series of sandpaper. For your final
sanding, or sanding between coats of finish, step up to the
200 series.
Books:
The Insider's Guide to Buying Tools
By Editors of
Popular Woodworking Books (2000)
ISBN:
1558705422
F&W Publications
1507 Dana
Ave.
Cincinnati, OH 45207
Phone: 513-531-2690
How to Use and Care for Your Woodworking Tools
By
Alan Bridgewater
ISBN: 0811727947
Stackpole Books
(1998)
5067 Ritter Rd.
Mechanicsburg, PA 17055
Customer Service Phone: 800-732-3669
Woodworker's Tool Guide: Getting the Most From Your Hand
Tools, Power Tools & Accessories
By David
Day
ISBN: 0806970618
Sterling Publishing Company
Inc.
387 Park Avenue South
New York, NY 10016
Phone:
212-532-7160
Fax: 212-213-2495
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