You can't do anything without
wood. Here's what to get.
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY NEAL
BARRETT
The raw materials for most furniture making projects
fall into three general categories: softwood lumber,
hardwood lumber and manufactured panels. The type of
material you use for any given project depends on
various factors: strength, hardness, grain
characteristics, cost, stability, weight, color,
durability and availability. Most beginning woodworkers
have their first experience with softwood, usually pine
lumber. It's soft and easy to work, and you don't need
expensive shop equipment to get good results. It's also
readily available at local lumberyards and home centers.
But it does have some notable liabilities, especially if
you're planning to make a fine piece of furniture. So
before you buy a bunch of pine for that coffee table you
have in mind, investigate all your options.
Softwood Lumber
Softwood is the wood from an evergreen or coniferous
(cone-bearing) tree. Examples are the many varieties of
pine, fir, spruce, hemlock, cedar and redwood. Some
softwoods are used as veneer in plywood panels. But most
of us are more familiar with this material in solid
lumber form. Most of the wood at lumberyards and home
centers falls into the softwood category. These woods
are the mainstay of the home construction industry.
They're used for framing lumber, window sash material,
millwork stock and much more. Generally speaking,
framing lumber, such as fir, spruce and hemlock, is not
used for fine furniture making. But pine boards do play
a significant role in cabinetmaking and architectural
trimwork.
Pine boards are sold in nominal widths from 2 in. to
12 in. The actual measurements of these boards are
usually 1/2 in. to 3/4 in. less than their nominal
dimensions. A similar convention applies to a board's
thickness. A nominal 1-in. board is actually 3/4 in.
thick and a 5/4 board is actually 11/16 in. thick. All
softwoods are sold in even foot lengths from 8 ft. to 16
ft.
One of the advantages of using pine for a project is
that you can confidently anticipate the sizes of lumber
that are available and easily calculate the yield you
can get from the stock. This can be much more difficult
when you work with hardwoods–more on this later.
Unfortunately, pine and most other softwoods are less
stable than most hardwoods. They absorb and lose
moisture more readily and are normally sold with a
higher moisture content–up to 15%–than hardwoods, which
usually have ranges from 6% to 8%. If you plan to use
pine, purchase the lumber at least two weeks before
starting your project and keep it indoors. Be sure to
place stickers (small pieces of scrap wood) between the
boards to permit good air circulation around each piece
of stock. These procedures will allow the wood to reach
an equilibrium with the indoor environment before you
begin, which reduces the likelihood of dramatic wood
movement after a project is complete.
While several grades of pine boards are routinely
milled, in practice you'll find only two grades at most
suppliers: select and No. 2 common. The common grade
allows tight, solid knots in the face of the board and
is most often used for paneling, shelving and
paint-grade work. For furniture applications the select
grade is the better choice. This stock is free from most
knots, though tight pin knots and small resin pockets
are allowed.
Pine is best used for designs where an informal or
rustic appearance is preferred. The characteristic
softness of the material, as well as its broad grain
pattern, are well suited to furniture in Early American
country styles.
Clear, oil-based finishes give pine an attractive
warm amber cast. But applying stain, particularly
oil-based ones, can present problems. Pine is extremely
resinous and has a grain that can change dramatically
from one area to the next on a given board.
Consequently, the wood is likely to absorb stain in an
uneven manner, creating a blotchy appearance. You can
achieve a more uniform stained surface by applying a
wood conditioner to the piece first. The conditioner
limits the absorption of the stain. But keep in mind
that using a conditioner isn't always successful. So,
it's a good idea to run a test first on an inconspicuous
part of your project to make sure you're happy with the
results. Of course, pine is a perfectly good choice when
a paint-grade surface is desired. The most striking
characteristic of pine, however, is its softness. You
can often leave an impression by simply running a
fingernail down the board.
Hardwood Lumber
Hardwood lumber comes from deciduous trees, the ones
that shed their leaves annually. Some popular domestic
species are oak, maple, cherry, birch, walnut, ash and
poplar. Of these common native hardwoods, only red oak
and poplar are usually stocked in home centers and
lumberyards, where they're frequently sold in the same
sizes as pine boards. But most hardwoods are carried by
specialty suppliers and are sized according to a
different convention.
The thickness of hardwood lumber is specified in
quarters of an inch, measured when the wood is in a
rough, unplaned state. The thinnest stock is 4/4,
representing 1 in., and the thickest usually available
is 16/4, representing 4 in. Most suppliers will plane
and straighten the edges of their stock before selling
it. Expect to pay more for this, but without a fully
outfitted workshop at home, you have no sensible
alternative. Of course, the finished thickness is
different from the rough thickness. For example, 4/4
stock ends up being 13/16 in. thick.
Instead of being milled to specified dimensions, like
pine, hardwoods are sold in random widths and lengths.
Normally, the narrowest boards are 4 in. wide and the
shortest lengths are 6 ft. long. Depending on the
species, boards can range up to 12 in. or 14 in. wide
and 16 ft. long. This variety in sizing means that you
must calculate the yield of a given board in the context
of your specific project. To help you do this, take
advantage of your lumber dealer's expertise. Talk to him
or her about the nature of your project and be prepared
with a list of the cuttings you need.
While the popular notion has always been that pine
lumber is less expensive than hardwoods, that isn't the
case anymore. These days you can purchase some
hardwoods, like poplar and soft maple, for the same
price as pine. Hardwoods like walnut and cherry,
however, are much more expensive. The cherry we used for
our console table project cost nearly $5 a board foot,
compared to $3 a board foot for pine.
Not only are hardwoods sized differently from
softwoods, but they're also priced differently. Most
suppliers sell pine boards at a price per lineal foot,
based on the width of the board. Hardwoods are sold by
the board foot, which is defined as a square foot of
rough lumber that is 1 in. thick. When a board is
thicker than 1 in., the dealer multiplies the square
footage by the thickness to arrive at the sale price. An
8/4 board will therefore cost twice as much as a 4/4
board of the same size.
Working with hardwoods is quite different from
working with pine. With the exception of poplar and
basswood, which tend to be rather soft, you cannot drive
a nail through hardwood lumber without first boring a
pilot hole. And cutting and planing hardwoods requires
extremely sharp tools. But the resulting edges are clean
and crisp. Because of this, when a project calls for
fine detail work, a hardwood is the best choice.
Some hardwoods, such as oak and ash, are known as
open-grain woods. These species have alternating areas
of relatively porous and dense wood. The grain patterns
in these boards tend to be quite striking. When stained,
the open-grain areas absorb the color readily while the
harder areas are more resistant. This contrast
accentuates the grain patterns, creating a dramatic
effect.
Cherry, maple and birch are closed-grain woods. These
woods demonstrate a more uniform texture throughout a
board. They are excellent choices for projects with a
formal or reserved appearance. Poplar is also a
closed-grain wood, but its color ranges from a creamy
beige to olive green, and frequently has purple
highlights thrown into the mix. Because of this unusual
coloration, poplar is rarely used if a furniture piece
is going to have a clear finish. This wood is best when
stained or even painted.
Manufactured Panels
Manufactured panels are available in a wide range of
surface veneers glued to different panel cores. Here,
the top panel has a cherry veneer over a solid lumber
core. The middle panel has a maple veneer over a veneer
core. And the bottom panel has a white oak veneer over a
particleboard core.
Hardwoods are also commonly used as outer veneers on
manufactured panels. These veneers are extremely thin
sheets of wood that are glued to a panel core of solid
wood strips (lumber core), alternating veneer layers
(veneer core) or particleboard. Such panels are usually
fabricated in 4 x 8-ft. sheets, but they are available
in other sizes. Their thicknesses range from 1/4 in. to
1 in., and they are often used in furniture and cabinet
construction, and architectural trimwork.
There are many advantages to using manufactured
panels. Because of their laminated construction, they
are extremely stable in all dimensions. And using them
yields considerable labor and cost savings, especially
when large, flat surfaces are required. Since the
veneers on any given panel are usually cut sequentially
from the same log, the panel should display a uniform
color and grain. Matching the grain pattern of solid
wood to the generally uniform grain pattern on the
panels can be difficult. But careful planning can yield
good matches in the most visible areas of your project.
Because solid hardwoods, like the softwoods mentioned
earlier, will move with changes in humidity, this must
be taken into account in projects that combine solid
wood with manufactured panels. Many joinery techniques
have been developed to accommodate this movement. The
use of solid wood frames surrounding veneered panels in
door construction is just one example.
Manufactured panels do have a couple of limitations.
First, whenever a panel is used, regardless of the core,
the edge must be hidden. In most cases, this is achieved
by gluing a strip of solid wood to the panel edge. This
process is called edge-banding. And second, the veneers
on the panel surface are extremely thin, often less than
1/32 in. Because of this, the surface is fragile and has
a tendency to split out, especially on the back side of
a saw cut. Also, since the veneer is so thin, there is
little margin for error when sanding the surface.
Aggressive sanding can quickly work through the veneer
and expose the unattractive panel core underneath.
There's no doubt that many successful furniture
pieces have been constructed of softwood lumber. And
manufactured panels play an important role in many
high-end, extremely expensive pieces. But for the
beginner, the best choice is still solid hardwood stock.
It may be more difficult to work with than softwood, and
in some cases it doesn't have the dimensional stability
of panels. But when you're done, you'll have something
that will last a lifetime and look good every time you
glance its way.
Manufactured panels are available in a
wide range of surface veneers glued to different
panel cores. Here, the top panel has a cherry
veneer over a solid lumber core. The middle panel
has a maple veneer over a veneer core. And the
bottom panel has a white oak veneer over a
particleboard core.
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